David’s Map Printing Method
David’s been refining his printing process since our last gallery post and has sent me a new batch of gorgeous images.
He’s got it down to something like a science, and was kind enough to share his method. Follow along below to learn how!
Okay so here are the maps I've put together recently...
I’ll detail my process, as I’ve become very particular. I was somewhat embarrassed earlier because I didn’t feel like I did a good job but I’m very proud of these ones.
- Edit the maps after importing from the pdfs, adding a black border and a masked off light grid to help in some places (which isn’t quite so subtle in the General Store and Schooner maps I printed). Export without any layers or color profile to Adobe PDF, and in those settings I give it a CMYK color profile. This is the best way I’ve figured out to get the most accurate colors.
- Print onto a matte card stock. Optionally: Laminate, although I’ve found this to have more drawbacks than benefits. Benefits: Can write/draw on with map markers, and is slightly more durable. Drawbacks: Marker on the edge bleeds inward, significantly harder to cut, bends the page (even when mounted), each map costs more than twice as much to assemble, and glossy look conflicts with a D&D aesthetic. 2/10 would not laminate again.
- Mount onto chipboard with spray adhesive, smooth out with bone folder, and leave under pressure (piled up Pathfinder books) for a few hours. I find the chipboard to be pretty cheap, sturdy, and half the depth of box cardboard, which is very useful for flat-pack maps.
- Cut out with xacto knife (carefully, clearly). Cut about a millimeter off each corner, and run the bone folder along the edges at 45 degrees on the top and bottom. This makes them less likely to tear and removes all sharp edges so they feel better to handle.
- Take a black markers over the edges, and label.
- Grid texture I use (set to multiply, at 50% opacity, masked with a textured brush):
- Chipboard I bought:
- My favorite super black low-odor marker: